MIGUEL MEDINAGetty Images
Not choosing is in itself a mission statement. Sometimes the wisest you can do. She proved it Matthieu Blazy for his debut at the creative direction of Bottega Veneta. Taking over from Daniel Lee early enough to set a new course, he preferred not to alter the status quo. There fall winter 2022 fashion show of the brand, among the most awaited at the Milano Fashion Week, it was an announced success. The parallels between the two are known, from training to shared experiences, what changes is the character, which is certainly milder here.
The man and woman in front of us have an updated wardrobe, slightly more affected than in previous years. One-of-a-kind pieces prevail over the styling, of which we must be convinced that they are so beautiful that they do not need additions: minidresses of very delicate sequins in shades of candy pink and canary yellow or, twist, of kiwi green, of which they ironically reproduce the internal texture; panel skirts that go down to below the knee with fringes instead of crinoline structures; the simplicity of the basic, of the white shirt and tank top, the minimalism that is the lesson of the Nineties, on straight leather trousers. Accessories are still the focus, the beating heart of the maison: the intertwining, which we see here and there between the silhouettes of the saddle, the bucket, and the clutch in multiple sizes, gives way to smooth workmanship; the objects of desire are the high boots, above the knee, with and without the heel and the fur décolleté. Interesting research in knitwear, many coats.
Of the parallel universe assembled by art and for art, nothing has been lost. The set up, a real construction site, is the synthesis of recent experiences: there is that underground flavor that tastes of a city in turmoil, that roughness of the suburbs that you want to wear the dress of the future, made of concrete yet to be brushed on. exposed bricks, and steel, which rigorously and meticulously collected in landfills, recycled and pressed was transformed into the pouf seats (design fetish that could become collectible or that we could find in boutiques) from which the guests followed the event from I live. The lights are the fixed, cold ones, which illuminate the buildings under construction, some scaffolding is still mounted here and there. The exotic of distant latitudes is missing, it is true, the music scene of the Techno in Detroit and Berlin is missing, but there is a Milan that reassures and, perhaps we all need it.
And then the exclusivity of the digital single-channel continues, of the app which is an all-encompassing experience outside the multiple metaverse. Only from there you can access the contents of Bottega Veneta, from shopping to forays into the disciplines of humanity unquestionably elected as a topic for in-depth analysis and discussion. An unexpected face, among the tops and regulars of recent weeks, opened and closed the show, in its features, in its sure, different stride, there is the essence of change.
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