Innovation, sustainability and research

Pambianco – consulting company specializing in the Fashion, Design, Beauty, Hotellerie and Wine & Food sectors – on the occasion of the 6° Beauty Summit Pambianco organized in collaboration with Cosmetica Italia, it analyzed the Italian cosmetics industry to evaluate the new business models that are being defined to respond effectively to the new challenges posed by the market.

Benedetto Lavino – Vice President of Cosmetics Italy

After a greeting from David Pambianco, CEO of Pambianco and moderator of the day, the proceedings began with the institutional intervention of Benedetto LavinoVice President of Cosmetica Italia, who analyzed the scenario of the national cosmetics sector and declared: “The preliminary figures for 2021 are slightly upwards compared to previous estimates and demonstrate the inelastic nature of the sector. Even in the face of the elements of uncertainty that characterize the current situation, the forecasts for 2022 are marked by a gradual recovery of pre-crisis values. This is possible thanks to the constant propensity to invest in research and innovation in our sector, a trend that is crucial in a strategic perspective of adapting to market developments, while continuing to maintain high standards of offer “.

Alessio Candi – Consulting and M&A Director Pambianco

Following Alessio CandiConsulting and M&A Director of Pambianco, presented research “The Beauty Industry and new business models” in which he analyzes the trend of the sector at a global level. As anticipated by Cosmetica Italia with regard to the internal market, the beauty sector also grew by 8% worldwide, reaching 218 billion euros and only partially recovering compared to 2019 (there were 220 in 2019). All product categories are growing with skincare accounting for 42% of the market. Another fundamental element is given by e-commerce which continues to grow (+ 16% in 2021) and is worth 51 billion, equal to 23% of the market. The main trends underway in the sector are the continuous launch of new brands promoted by influencers and celebrities, the concentration with various M&A operations carried out in Italy and abroad, the homelessness and finally sustainability, increasingly at the center of the research of each brand.

The morning then continued with an informal chat between Barbara LunghiHead of Listing Sales Italy of Borsa Italiana e Pietro OrianiChief Financial Officer of Intercos Group, a company listed with excellent results on Euronext Milan since last November.

David Pambianco he then introduced and interviewed, to understand their points of view from the hands of the entrepreneurs and managers.

Emmanuel Goulin, General Manager of the L’Oréal Luxe Italia Division, analyzed the beauty market through the privileged point of view of a complex reality such as L’Oréal, the first cosmetic group in the world. The manager in particular offered an insight into the luxury segment and the strategies necessary to position a beauty luxury brand on the market. The correct approach requires a specific multichannel vision which today consists of perfumeries, department stores, boutiques and e-commerce.

Carlo BianchiniGeneral Manager Pharma Division Bolton Group, presented the 2.8 billion company he led and analyzed the case histories of the two relaunch projects underway for the Somatoline brand in Italy and for the Rogé Cavaillès brand in France.

Luca Lomazzi, Country General Manager Shiseido Italy, explained how today the company among its growth drivers includes the ability to be local and global at the same time and the investment in research which, thanks to their 8 development centers around the world, now places them at the forefront both in the shift towards the use of increasingly natural products and in terms of performance. The skincare sector, which they see destined to grow further, will be able to make use of new products that will go under the name of “bioperformance”, with performances very close to those of cosmetic surgery.

Davide Tavaniello, Co-Founder and Co-CEO Hippocrates Holding gave voice to the evolution of the distribution channel of pharmacies, increasingly destined to aggregate and create a system. They are proceeding with the acquisitions and have also launched a private label with lines of supplements and hygiene and dermocosmetics that they would like to reach 10/15% of their turnover.

Stefano Zanzi, President of HSA Cosmetics, finally, spoke about the recent sale of the company to The Equity Club (Tec) and their consequent entry with shares in the parent company. The Group, which is evaluating further acquisitions, leaves autonomy to each individual company but accelerates its development. They, in particular, are expanding their offer for the professional channel by adding dermocosmetics to color.

To close the introductory phase of the morning Walter RicciottiManaging Partner of Made in Italy Fund, who stated: “The Beauty market is today one of the most interesting for Private Equity funds. As a fund we intend to continue investing in this sector, which in recent years has shown good resilience and an unparalleled ability to innovate and reinvent itself, to intercept new trends. Companies in this segment, thanks to the support of a fund like ours, can accelerate their growth and development process, digitize and consolidate, becoming more competitive globally, also through M&A and Add-on operations. “

The Summit then resumed after the coffee break with the interview with Giovanni D’Antonio, CEO and Co-Founder of Medspa, a company born from an expertise in the plastic surgery sector and owner of the skincare brand Miamo. The Group, which has a turnover of 25 million euros, is now aiming abroad to continue growing. Courted by investment funds, today they aim to grow on their own, also through the acquisition of other brands that target the pharmacy channel.

Following Carlo Bertolatti, General Manager Yves Rocher Italy, presented his case history, of a reality that has been growing continuously for 10 years and which today makes 80% of its turnover through direct sales. The talk analyzed the importance of multi-channel sales that provide customers with an increasingly consistent brand experience and

rewarding. Another important development lever is that of sustainability that will lead the group, already a Benefit company from 2021, to become an international B corp in the next few years.

Corrado BrondiFounder and CEO Give Back Beauty summarized the various business areas of the Group led by him and introduced the very topical theme of “talent driven brands”.

Stefano Fatelli, CEO of Cantabria Labs Difa Cooper shared the experience of a group of over 300 million that has its strong point in owning the ingredients. This leads, for the development times of the same, to have a long-term approach that guarantees maximum reliability and quality. Today the company is present in our country with different brands ranging from solar to skincare to anti-aging. In light of the recent launch of the Elancyl brand, in the pharmacy channel, we finally considered the change in consumers made more aware of the importance of health since the pandemic period.

A further study and food for thought arose from the interview with Federica Montelli, Head of Fashion Rinascente. The manager highlighted how distribution has had to manage the change of consumer, mainly domestic in recent years. A local clientele required greater product rotation and an experiential approach that prompted them to create greater interactions between fashion and beauty. They are also implementing a new Beauty bar format, functional to present emerging brands or niche projects to their consumers. Today, after a period of sales almost exclusively dominated by skincare, the demand for make-up is also returning.

Finally, the interview with Jean Madar, Chairman of the Board and CEO InterParfums, Inc. Strengthened by the know-how acquired in the perfumery segment, they are not considering expansion to other segments for now. They see great room for growth in their sector both with the acquisition of new licenses and with the acquisition of brands.

By the editorial staff

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