Between references to the past and stimulating suggestions for the future, a selection of the best stylists who walked the catwalks of London Fashion Week
London fashion is the mouthpiece of the new that is advancing. A quick step that, with continuity, speaks a confidential language to the younger generations. In the belief that ideas are worth more than anything else, during the London Fashion Week a freer and more playful vision of fashion emerged, probably dictated by the desire to escape from the dark times of the pandemic. Here are the five designers we will hear about.
‒ Stefania Carpentieri
1. MOLLY GODDARD
Ex studentessa del Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Molly Goddard founded her brand in 2015. The British designer, born in 1988, received the Emerging Talent award at the Fashion Awards in 2016 and was selected for the 2017 LVMH Award. Despite her young age, in May 2018 Goddard won the BFC / Vogue Designer Fashion Fund . In the aesthetic story of the fashion designer she prevails a feminist streak, often accompanied by frivolous clothing. The international success comes thanks to the singer Rihanna who, on several official occasions, has worn her creations. Her name is also well known and appreciated in the United States, having participated in the merchandising of the 2019 edition of the MET Gala, entitled Camp: Notes on Fashion. The fall / winter 2022-23 collection is inspired by a woman she met in her childhood who struck her for her ability to mix military garments with feminine details such as red lipstick and long, teased blonde hair. Imaginatively placed in Portobello, the line combines taffeta dresses with military chic jackets; and again, baggy sweaters and men’s sneakers. Tulle alternates with jacquard sweaters and long skirts paired with fishnet stockings.
2. MAXIMILIAN DAVIS
He is just 26 years old but his name is quickly imposed in London: Maximilian Davis convinces because he is able to translate his roots into his creative projects. Originally from Manchester, his family is originally from Trinidad and Tobago, a Caribbean island famous for its carnival. Maximilian – recently appointed new creative director of the Ferragamo maison – is inspired by the tailoring of the Sixties and Seventies, a recurring detail also in the fall / winter 2022-23 collection; the clothes worn by women return on Sunday mornings to go to church. In his projects the miniskirtsle jackets with round shoulders and, on the contrary, double-breasted blazer with marked shoulders. Her memories are childhood memories, when she admired her father elegantly dressed in a tailored suit and her mother who had her clothes sewn by a personal tailor.
3. RICHARD QUINN
Richard Quinn is one of the biggest names in the new generation of Made in UK designers. Its something extra? That ability to transfer haute couture notions into ready-to-wear.
His label was founded in 2017 and immediately proved to be very competitive with the names that best celebrated the glories of fashion. Among these, Christian Dior, from whom he draws inspiration through a contemporary reinterpretation of New Look. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Richard Quinn makes the print his signature. Right from the start, in fact, he showed interest in the thenwhich it offers in its collections regularly, in different colors and sizes. The Eighties are his obsession, as evidenced by the fall / winter 2022-23 collection that develops over a period of time that goes from the Fifties (with monastic-cut coats) to marked shoulders and puffed sleeves, trendy in the Eighties. Then, sensual dresses in semi-transparent tulle and tight-fitting latex jumpsuits alternate. The romanticism translated by the riot of flowers finally collides with the BDMS provocation, thanks to a latex look worn by the drag-queen Violet Chachki that “leads” a man on a leash.
4. MICHAEL HALPERN
Since the launch of his label, Michael Halpern he achieved such strong success that his first collection was sold on Bergdorf Goodman, MatchesFashion and Browns. Halpern is also a former student of the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, confirming the hegemony of the London school over the institutions across the Channel. His creativity was noticed by Donatella Versace who offers him a place in her atelier. “His sense of color is brilliant; his craftsmanship is incredible”, The designer said in an interview.
Born in the United States, his passion for design led him to study at the Parsons School of Design. In 2010, before moving to London to complete his studies at Central Saint Martins, he worked as a design assistant for J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta. His greatest source of inspiration is his mother who, a regular visitor to Studio 54, got him used to observing a strong and provocative aesthetic. In this atmosphere, the fall / winter 2022-23 collection is created, made of sequined dresses, which Michael’s mother used to wear. In particular, this creative project is inspired by the glamor of Madame Satan, revealed in Cecil B. DeMille’s 1930 musical comedy. On the catwalk, therefore, second skin dresses in silk, for a great evening, parade; they are tight-fitting, with seductive see / do not see. Then there is a tribute to Azzedine Alaïa with the jumpsuit enriched with hood, worn by Grace Jones.
5. NENSI DOJAKA
The fall / winter 2022-23 collection signed by the young designer is seductive Nancy Dojakawinner of the LVMH Award 2021. Originally from Albania, born in 1994, the designer graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London. Her fame grew thanks to her participation in Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East in 2020. Drawing inspiration from the series Flowers di Irving Penn, la fashion designer introduces the down jacket and tailored jackets on the catwalk for the first time, combining them with sensual and light dresses, inspired by lingerie, in particular petal bralettes. The combination of fabrics with different heaviness such as tulle and velvet is very successful. The pants, close to the body, are embellished with delicate straps. A new color tone, called Hawthorne Rose, is added to the monochromatic palette, in which black is prevalent.