The Parisian week dedicated to fashion saw some of the most famous maison in the field of Haute Couture parade. Between craftsmanship and sumptuous proposals
Since its debut in Paris in 1850, in the midst of the explosion of Realism, theHaute Couture has entered into a strong bond with art, which has always been an evolutionary expression of society. On the Paris / Florence axis, the two fashion capitals compete for the undisputed primacy of creativity, which will remain in the hands of the French, although the effort of the Marquis Giovanni Battista Giorgini – promoter of Made in Italy since 1951‒ has given impetus to the industry of Italian fashion by exporting it all over the world. Literally unique dresses parade on the Haute Couture catwalks, designed to be worn by queens, princesses and celebrities on the red carpet. Garments embellished with embroidery and special processes that are made by historic ateliers, where the tradition of hand-made is handed down to a select few. It is the case of Christian Diorwhich entrusts its creations to Atelier Paloma Paris.
THE PROTAGONISTS OF THE PARIS FASHION WEEK
For the Haute Couture spring / summer 2022 presented during the Parisian Fashion Week, Maria Grazia Chiuriwhich is its strong point of craftsmanship, collaborates with the artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh creating tapestries that decorate the hall of the Rodin Museum, where the show was set up. The work has kept Chanakya, one of the most appreciated craft schools in India, busy for a long time. To create these installations, authentic works of art, 380 craftsmen were employed who worked for over 280 thousand hours. In Chiuri’s collections, all this is an expression of added value, where the protection of craftsmanship becomes essential to safeguard the maison’s know-how.
Chanel entrusts his Couture to the Atelier Lesage, the embroidery maison, which since 1924 collaborates with the most famous stylists of the time: Poiret, Paquin and Elsa Schiaparelli, just to name a few. Virginie Viard, who became creative director of the label following the death of Karl Lagerfeld, keeps the Chanel tradition alive, aiming to enrich the iconic tweed suit with embroidery of threads and sparkling stones. An all-encompassing show, that of Chanel, which at the opening shows a thoroughbred tamed by the beautiful Charlotte Casiraghi, ambassador of the brand. The horse as a symbol of an indissoluble bond with the past. Coco, in fact, romantically united with Étienne Balsan – a cavalry officer – appreciates the world of horse riding, developing an adoration for that universe as fascinating as it is elitist. Her woman is a horsewoman; androgynous beauty that dresses in fluidity inheriting Mademoiselle’s free spirit.
FROM GAULTIER TO VALENTINO
Glenn Martensat the creative guide of jean paul Gaultier for the spring / summer 2022 collection, he remains faithful to the ironic and unconventional aesthetic of the label, which has chosen to work with different stylists for its Haute Couture line. Sifting through the archives, Martens, the founder of Y / Project, enhances the dogmas of the fashion sailor aiming to highlight the woman’s hips with gentle volumes. Curved lines that caress the shapes and design generous jacquards. Theatricality is the key word to describe the collection: a scenographic project that has its roots in the golden years of the brand, the Nineties. A riot of chiffon that gives lightness to Martens’ superlative ingenuity.
Pierpaolo Piccioliper Valentinoexplores a new idea of female anatomy by titling the collection Anatomy of Couture. The designer undertakes to develop a careful analysis of female beauty over time. From this perspective, the rituals and processes of Couture vary to create a canon that reflects the richness and diversity of the contemporary, promoting a beauty without absolutes. With this exercise, the Italian designer does not idealize a woman, but multiple female figures. The lines have a strong verticality or a vaporous horizontality. In its variegated originality, therefore, the collection appears harmonious both in the clean cuts of the necklines and in the fluffyness; for a project that in the various silhouettes investigates the truthfulness of what is real and that denies the abstraction of what it excludes. Pierpaolo Piccioli comments: “The female body was the starting point and the ending point of this season. I wanted to investigate the beauty of humanity, without hiding the body but also enhancing it at the level of sensuality. Today there can be no rules of elegance or preconceptions of style. This collection is a tribute to beauty regardless of the silhouette of a body. This is couture for me today. This for me is the beauty of the contemporary”.
AND KIM JONES IN ZUHAIR MURAD
Kim Jonesper Fendi, creates a Haute Couture that rewrites the history of Ancient Rome proposing it in the guise of exaggerated glamor. In the dreamlike vision of the Fendi woman, Jones elaborates a spring / summer 2022 that explores the themes of spirituality and esotericism in an alternation of past and future that mix in the graphic layout of the line. The Roman maison does not renounce the use of fur, which is inlaid and applied to the Hollywood-style evening dresses. The beauty embodied by the Italian capital becomes manifest on the iconographic clothes that represent not only the effigies of the great emperors but also the cathartic face of Christ. Fendi does not lose sight of her origins linked to the most profound Roman times, of which the artisan traditions represent one of the excellences. Kim Jones himself says: “When you walk the streets of Rome, you are constantly moving back and forth in time. The place where we work looks very modern, but you get closer to the monuments along the way. There is a total timelessness in the city: a historical vein that runs through it, but also a movement that projects itself forward“. For this reason, the collection is conceived as a Roman walk which overlooks the historical codes of the city, its statuary marbles and ecclesiastical aesthetics.
In the end Zuhair Murad, Lebanese stylist emblem of Middle Eastern design and glamor, it brings the opulence of Haute Couture to the catwalk with an elaborate collection in the name of Gothic. The creative project investigates the thousand faces of the contemporary woman, at times romantic in others strong and courageous. From chiffon, therefore, new dynamics are triggered, where the pomp of evening dresses, decorated with crystals that radiate light, gives way to scenographic looks with cascades of golden chains and colored gems that start a sensory journey made of dynamism lush.
‒ Stefania Carpentieri