Creme beauty 2022, it's the turn of the fermented ones - Lifestyle

Creme beauty 2022, it’s the turn of the fermented ones – Lifestyle

E’ the year of bio-ferments for the beauty of the skin, 2022. The past months a radiant Jennifer Lopez showed on Instagram how her serums are applied (line JLo Beauty) made with fermented rice sake oils and leaves and the European patent of anti-aging active ingredients obtained from neroli leaves (bitter orange) fermented with saccharomyces cerevisiae yeasts, filed by the research division of the brand Chanel. The industries specialized in skincare this year are betting everything on the processes of natural fermentation to churn out new elixirs with a booster action, enhanced by this method of extracting the active ingredients that allows a much greater action. In use for some time in Asian countries, this type of beauty products is enjoying worldwide success that is increasing year by year, with a global market forecast for 2025 of 78.2 billion dollars and a growth in CAGR countries of 5.5%. , according to a review just published in these days in the technical-scientific journal Cosmetic & Toiletries. The fermentation of the plant extracts acts as a booster on the classic properties of the same extracts. In practice, the active ingredients would be enhanced and so the effects on the skin. “The bioferments are obtained by enzymatic way, using bacteria and yeasts able to ‘digest’ and break complex molecules and make them very small and able to penetrate into the skin increasing their bioavailability” write the authors of the review.
Kimchi and kombucha, fermented foods that are now also spoken of by us to keep the health of the intestine under control, could also work for our skin. And so an increasing number of brands are exploiting the wonders of fermented ingredients to create effective skin care products, which they enhance the barrier and also promote a healthy skin microbiome. Originating in Korea, where fermented ingredients have been used for thousands of years, that’s hardly a new concept. But as our obsession with health and wellness grows, so does our interest in skin care to support our efforts in the area. “In recent years, skin care trends have tended to follow wellness trends,” confirms consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. “Fermentation in skincare is a good example of this,” he adds to Vogue.
What is fermentation? It is a metabolic process in which compounds are broken down by microorganisms, such as bacteria and yeasts, into simpler and smaller compounds. Some are already in the current beauty routine. The ingredients range from alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, mandelic and lactic originate respectively from fermented sugar, almonds and milk), to a series of natural extracts, created from ingredients including red ginseng and black tea.
What do fermented components do more or differently than other beauty ingredients? “They can be aimed at supporting the skin’s natural defenses and reducing inflammation, – reads the report. – They can also be targeted to purify acne-prone skin, help rebuild the skin barrier and protect the skin from pollution thanks to their antioxidant properties. In fact, most of the ingredients obtained from plants show an antioxidant activity, however fermentation increases this activity thanks to a greater release of active ingredients. The fermented ingredients are ‘symbiotic’ with the skin and also have the same pH. Finally, the fermentation process creates smaller molecules, which can not only penetrate the skin deeper and more quickly but also provide extra nutrients such as amino acids and peptides. Ferments rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as omega-3 and omega-6, hydrate deeper levels of the skin. Finally, they can have effects on our natural microbiome ”.
Among the active ingredients from bio-fermentation of the moment, the review mentions the wasabi root, the Japanese horseradish fermented with Lactobacillus. Or the lemon zest, antioxidant, incubated with Lactobacillus lactis. Or i tonka bean seeds fermented with Lactobacillus which act as a UV filter and fight photo-aging of the skin. They follow mannitol and maltodextrin fermented with Lactobacillus which act against free radicals and pollutants by rebalancing the skin microbiota. Then the carrot root fermented with the bacterium Bacillus ginseng isoli. Rich in vitamins A, B, C and K and phytonutrients such as carotenes, it improves the production of collagen, firmness and elasticity of the skin. Follows the radish root biofermented with Lactobacillus casei with antioxidant and detoxifying action. Furthermore fermented soy with Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Bacillus subtilis, with phytohormonal action due to the presence of isoflavones. Finally, a long list of fermented brown algae. Among the novelties also the kombuchaobtained from the fermentation of sweetened tea and which has proven antioxidant and anti-aging properties.
The trend is at the top of the news in skincare to keep an eye on for 2022 also according to Natrue, the international association for natural and organic cosmetics based in Brussels. “It is about the use of ingredients obtained from fermentation, a method already very widespread in the Asian market. The natural process makes the extracts more effective and rich in benefits for the skin. Thanks to the action of microorganisms and enzymes, the fermentation of natural ingredients allows substances to ‘break down’ and improve their absorption, and can increase the concentration of antioxidants, vitamins, peptides and amino acids “explains Mark Smith, general director of the association. .
Among the top brands for fermented creams are the fermented skincare lines of Korean Whamisa, among the first to stand out for the fermentation process of organic plant extracts by the Lactobacillus type bacteria (patented method). Followed by serums and lip balms from Florena Fermented Skincarebrand born from an all-Italian project of the colossus Beiersdorf entirely dedicated to fermented cosmetics and fermented oils of The Ordinary, an Australian brand that has revolutionized the sector by offering pure oils with retinol at bargain prices. Also Wasobrand from farmers to face of the giant Shiseido, exploits the bio-fermentation applied to Japanese plant ingredients grown by local farms for ultra-moisturizing serums and creams. Drunk Elephant è un brand that frequently uses fermented extracts in its formulas, not only ward off oxidative stress from external aggressors, but also have strong anti-inflammatory benefits for the skin. The cleansing concentrate recently launched by Glossier uses the help of exfoliating grape ferment, together with lactic and malic acids and niacinamide to brighten, smooth and firm the skin. La Pink Drink Essence by Sunday Riley is packed with goodies, including prebiotic fermented honey, green tea and ceramides, to keep skin strong, healthy and glowing. The Tea Shot Urban Defense Serum by Zelens is the latest advocate of skincare and uses fermented black tea (or kombucha) along with four other types of tea for unprecedented antioxidant protection. And finally, the cult Kombucha black tea facial treatment by Freshwhich can be used after cleansing morning and evening for a hydrated and happy skin.

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